Beijing Baby!

Here it finally is, the Beijing update and only a month late!!

To sum it all up, it was amazing.

We left on the first flight Saturday morning, and met up with the other friends from different areas who were coming with us. There were 14 of us in total, and we actually all got there on time!

The bus ride is about an hour from my house to the airport, and on the way I started to feel some rumbles in my stomach. I didn't think anything of it, but soon after I felt really really sick and had to make a run for the bathroom! I felt horrible, and it took me a good 20 minutes to 'clear' my system and get back out to the group. I was all sweaty and pale, and if our bags hadn't already been checked I definitely just would have gone home. Two flights and a weekend in a city where the public washrooms are known to be horrible was not my idea of a good time. In the end, one of the girls we were with had imodium, and I made it to the plane about 10 minutes before it left. She had brought a bunch too, so I kept on taking it all weekend and was alright.

On Saturday we did some touring around town, then went to the famous Silk Market. It's a huge 9 floor building packed with knock-off coats, sweaters, jeans, jewelry, shoes... anything you could want. It's pretty much just aisles and aisles of clothes, and packed with people too. The biggest thing at the market is bargaining for the things you want. I had no idea what I was getting myself in to! The process took about 15-20 for anything I bought. For example, I bought a winter jacket for $20, but they started at $800. Here's how the conversation went: (CBL = Crazy Beijing Lady, A = Ashley, prices in $ just to make it easier)

CBL - Hey lady, you like this jacket?
A- Hmmm maybe, yeah, it's ok (so as not to show any excitement)
CBL - Very nice jacket, very expensive jacket
A - Oh yes, I can see by the tape on the inside that it's a very expensive jacket
CBL - Are you crazy? Very expensive. Look at sewing.
A - Yes, I can see the threads hanging out. How much?
CBL - Hmm (pauses to think) special price, just for you. $800.
A - $800 for a jacket that has tape on the inside?!? I'll give you $10.
CBL - (Pouts and stomps her foot) Hmf! You are crazy!! You rich lady, you pay $800 for this coat.
A - If I were rich I wouldn't be here. $10.
CBL - Best price tell me your best price.
A - Ok fine $20. Best price.
CBL - CRAZY!! You hurt me lady, you hurt me. Come on lady, $700.
A - (starts to walk away) No way. Ok thanks bye!!
CBL - (Grabs A's arm). Ok ok ok wait. Just for you, special price. $650.
A - Don't touch me. That's not a special price. Bye. (walks away and this time makes it to the next shop.
CBL - (yelling down the aisle). Wait!! Lady come back. What's your best price?

Anyway so that's how it goes, walk away maybe 3 or 4 more times until they finally give it to you for the price you want. It's exhausting!! I think I'd rather just go to a normal store and pay more! I think this place is more of a big deal for people who want the designer brands. I just needed a jacket to keep me warm! I did get a lot though, for about $100 I got a pair of boots (fake Uggs of course... uggh haha), a ski jacket, a pea coat, 4 sweaters and a purse. Not too shabby! We were debating whether or not it would be worth a trip from Canada, and decided you could actually make up for the price of your flight in shopping while you're there.

At one point I had to go to the bathroom again, but public washrooms in Beijing are really hard to find, notoriously dirty, always squatters and not toilets, and some are an open concept (no stalls). Given my current stomach condition I kind of needed some privacy, so I searched around until some girl led me way back in behind the stores, through a couple of dark and dingy hallways (don't worry mom I wasn't alone!), and then into a 'bathroom' that was the worst smelling room I'd ever been in in my life. This is how bad it was... while I was squatting I could feel water or something dripping from the ceiling onto my back. But, when you gotta go you gotta go!!

Here are some photos from Saturday:







That night everyone went out to a club, but I still wasn't feeling great so I stayed in our hotel. Wennie's mom was in Beijing visiting a friend, so she organized a place for us to stay. It was suites that apparently you can only rent for the month, but she swung us a deal and we only had to pay $20 a night each. We had 3 suites, and they all had a full kitchen, bathroom and 3 bedrooms. I had my first bath in 9 months!!

Sunday morning we woke up early for our tour of the Great Wall and the Forbidden City. One of the girls had organized a bus and a tour guide, and what a bus it was! Here it is:



It smelled a little smokey and there were probably empty beer bottles under our chairs, but it was super cheap and the guide was really great. So, we made it to the Wall by 9am and I have to say it was one of the most amazing experiences of my life, if not the most amazing. The Wall is something I had wanted to see for a long time, and it was pretty hard to believe that I had finally made it. It was cooooold... but nothing like walking the Great Wall of China to warm you up!!






Next stop after an amazing Chinese food lunch (not so amazing when the msg settles in) was the Forbidden City, the Chinese imperial palace. It was the home of the Emperor and his family for over 5 centuries, and it was also amazing to see. I think they started to build it in 1405, and I can definitely say that I had never seen a building this old before. Kind of cool too because I had seen it in movies before!

More photos:





The last two are the gates into the Forbidden City seen from Tiananmen square, and then the square. Also a place I had always wanted to see, and pretty emotional to be standing in the place where 2,000 civilians were massacred for demonstrating against the Chinese Communist Party.

We headed home Monday morning, and work was not fun after a weekend with only 5 hours sleep total! But it was definitely worth it, and everyone has been talking about planning another weekend trip to Shanghai. We'll see!

Good news is I've booked a last minute trip to Thailand for Christmas. I couldn't spend Christmas here alone! Some of the people we went to Beijing with are going for 10 days, so I decided to tag along. Because I booked so late I couldn't leave until the 23rd, but that's fine by me.

Wennie also leaves the 23rd to go home, and some other friends who are heading to Thailand have a flight an hour before mine. So, we're going to head out early to have an early dinner/good bye party for Wennie at the airport. Then, I get to Bangkok at 12:30am. My next flight out is at 6:30, so I'm just going to hang out at the aiport and wait for the next flight. Then off to Koh Samui to hang out on the beach for 6 days!

We haven't planned to much, just going to the famous full moon party on Koh Phangan, one of the neighbouring islands, Christmas Eve. Then back to Bangkok on the 30th. The people I'm with are staying until the 1st, but the only flight I could get was on the 31st at 11:30pm. But again, fine by me... I'm going to Thailand! I realized that I can celebrate New Years in a ridiculous number of time zones this year... however many we go through in the air (at least 2), then the next day I'll be calling people in Toronto then Vancouver.

On a slightly sadder note, we found out on Friday that Migeum campus is finally closing. In two weeks. We kind of knew it was coming, but they had just hired a new teacher to replace Wennie and I really thought they would stay open at least until I left. I was wrong! I'm not overly happy about it, but there's nothing I can do. Our campus is so relaxed, I know the kids, and I love my co-workers. Kind of crappy to have to change everything for the last two months I'm here, but it's not the end of the world. I'm not sure if I'll have to move apartments yet, but if I don't I'm not going to look forward to the subway ride to and from work every day!

I had thought about asking for my severance and flight home for the end of this month, but I really doubt they would give it to me early. Korea is difficult that way, our contracts mean nothing and they can do whatever they want with us. Plus, I'm not sure I'm ready to go! As much as I say I'm ready to go home the thought of leaving in two weeks makes my stomach do a flip flop. I think I really need to finish out the year like I said I was going to, and not come home early for some boy (Luke doesn't read this haha!).

Those are the updates for now, I'll write when I find out what's happening with my job, and definitely once I get back from Thailand!!

Merry Christmas!!

Hugs and Kisses

Ashley

A Long Overdue Update

3 months... really it's been 3 months?!? Wow. What have I done since then?? Here's the short list:

- I drank a lot of beer
- I teached a lot of Engrish
- I made a few kids cry
- I went to Canada and back in 4 days

and that's about it!

I feel like it's been the same old routine; go to work, go home and mark essays, catch up on my tv shows online, wait for Friday, meet up with friends then go back to work on Monday.

The trip home was amazing! Unfortunately I got bronchitis the Saturday before I left. I haven't been that sick in a long time, and I was so worried and stressed that I was going to be sick for Kell's wedding. Luckily they have a miracle shot here that they give you in the bum... a few hours after you get it all your symptoms are magically gone! It only lasts for about 24 hours, but by then the antibiotics kicked in so the worst of it was over. I read somewhere online that there are no antibiotics for bronchitis, but the doctor still gave me 13 pills a day for 10 days. I have no idea what I was taking, and normally I would have just waited it out, but I really wanted to get better.

So finally after another shot to make the sniffles and coughing go away for the plane ride, I left on Thursday afternoon. I flew Air Canada because it was by far the cheapest, but I have to say I think next time I'd pay the extra for a better airline. When I came here in February on Korean Air the service was amazing, the food was delicious and I had my own little tv with unlimited movies, tv shows and video games. Air Canada.. not so much. First there were no window seats left so I had to sit on the aisle. Then the only tvs they had were the big ones for everyone to watch... and someone's head is always in the way. It wasn't horrible, but it was a LONG flight. 13 hours of sitting in one cramped spot not being able to sleep was not my idea of a fun time.

But as soon as I saw Krinny waiting for me at Pearson it was all worth it! Our first stop was Tim Horton's for tea. We drove right up to Durham, and the ride was great for catching up lots of muffy laughs! We got to Durham around 9pm and after driving around for 15mins Durham (only we could get lost in a town that small) finally found Kell's house. The reunion was great!! So good to have the 3 of us together again, especially since we really only all get together once every 1 or 2 years. The weekend was packed with wedding goodness, and it went by in a flash. I just remember drinking a lot of Tim Horton's. I was pretty out of it the whole time, and super dizzy. I've actually seen a few pictures (thanks to Susa my personal paparazzo for the weekend) that I don't remember being taken, and no I didn't drink a sip of alcohol! I thought it was the jet lag (I didn't really sleep Thursday night and only for a few hours Friday night thanks to the party in the hotel room beside us), and it took me until Sunday to realize it was the medication. Oh Ashley. It was so great to see Mom, dad, Kal and Blaine too.. thanks so much for driving up guys! It made the weekend that much better.

So, Sunday morning the Lyons clan packed up and took me back to Pearson. When I booked my flights I had to make a stop in Vancouver on the way back, so I paid a little extra for a layover for the night. That way I could actually spend time with Matt, Reena and the kids, and see Luke for a night too.

Needless to say I was exhausted by this point (3-4 hours of sleep a night for 3 nights plus jet lag kind of wears on you after a while) and was looking forward to sleeping on the flight to Vancouver. But nooooo, no window seats left. Oh, and I just happened to be in the row in front of the emergency exit so my seat didn't go back either. So... 5 hours of sitting straight up, falling asleep then falling into the aisle or the woman beside me, trying to stay awake and then falling asleep and falling again... I was the person you really don't want sitting beside you.

Finally I made it to Vancouver, and it was so great to see Matt, Reena and the kids!. Caleb is a little man now, and we had some great conversations (while I sipped my Timmy's of course) about the game cube and games Luke left at the house for them. Taya kept talking about 'remember when you were real'... ohhh right, I forgot that I'm not real anymore. They're both so grown up and I can't wait to get back to spend more time with them.

Luke was flying back from Disneyland that day (talk about good timing), so I met him at the airport (Timmy's in hand haha) and I think it was the best hug I've ever had in my life. So great to see him. Hard because I knew I'd have to say goodbye in the morning for another 5 months, but it was better than nothing. We all went for dinner, then I said bye to Matt, Reena and the kids. It was sad to say goodbye, but don't worry I got to see them again! Little did I know when I was waving goodbye to them that I was also waving goodbye to my luggage in the back of their car. Again, oh Ashley.

So, back to Korea on Monday, and this time I got a window seat and slept almost the entire 11 hour flight back, except for the meals. I slept the 1.5 hour bus ride back to my place too, and then 16 hours that night. I was a little tired! I didn't really feel the time change once I was back here, I think my body never adjusted to Canadian time.

So now back to the 'grind'... at work 8 hours a day, teaching 6 hours a day.. life is tough! I have some really great kids in some of my classes, so they days usually go by pretty fast. I have about 3.5 months left here, and I'm a bit torn between trying to enjoy it and feeling ready to come home. I know that I'll miss it once I leave, but I miss Luke a lot and sometimes it feels like February is years away.

So, nothing like a weekend trip to Beijing to make me feel better! There's a group of about 10 of us going this weekend, and I can't wait. Saturday is shopping day (Beijing is famous for its shopping), and Sunday is 'tour' day. We've hired a bus to take us to the Forbidden City in the morning and the Great Wall in the afternoon, and I'm actually looking forward to that more than the shopping. Although I'm told that $300 would buy me a whole new wardrobe, so I can't complain!

I'll update more on school and the trip next week, I promise!!

Miss you all

Love

Ashley

Everland (aka Ebah-land-uh)

Well, I'm officially on holidays!!

I'm thinking it's going to be a long week. There's not much to do when no one's around! I'm dog-sitting for a co-worker though, so it's nice to have some company. Her name is Miso and she's pretty cute. She cuddled beside me all night and woke me up at 10am by licking my face. Who needs a boyfriend when you have a cute little dog to keep you company?!?

So, last weekend at Everland was fun. Ridiculously hot, like I was sweating from the minute we got off the bus to the minute we got back on it. I was a little disappointed with the rides though. There were only 3 roller coasters, and not too many other rides. We realized that it's more of a family theme park. One of the roller coasters was amazing though, the best I've ever been on. It's the same as the Vortex at Wonderland, where the cars are hanging instead of sitting on the rail. I think there must have been motors in it or something, because the way we whipped around the corners was pretty crazy. I couldn't stop smiling the whole time, it was that good. The Koreans definitely have a talent for making rides (minus the safety factor of course).

Luckily there was a zoo too to keep us busy. Lots of monkeys, some tigers, a seal, some penguins, polar bears and a ton of birds. They leave the birds out in the open, so it was pretty cool to see parrots and cockatoos close up. The only sad thing was that the animals all looked pretty mangy and sick. Some of the monkeys were missing patches of fur, and the 3 polar bears were in a space together that is probably not big enough for 1.

The last ride we went on was the water raft ride they have at Wonderland, where you sit in a circle in a bumper raft. No one was coming out looking too wet, so we figured it should be fine (we were going to leave after the ride.) Not so much. Near the end of the ride a Korean kid sitting across from me got water splashed in his face, I caught his eye and I couldn't help but laugh at him. Well not laugh AT him, but.. ok yeah, I was laughing at him. But he looked so surprised! So while I'm sitting trying not to laugh too hard a huge waved comes out of nowhere and soaks ME, and only me. To the point where I looked like I had stepped into the shower with my clothes on. Not even the guy who was sitting beside me was wet. So yes, it was an excellent bus ride home.

Hmm what else? A story from school: I was teaching my younger kids how to answer the question "What does ... look like?" We did things like animals, and then I asked "What does teacher look like?" The answers were "Teacher has brown hair", "Teacher is very many tall", "Teacher has blue eyes" and finally one kid said "Teacher has big mouth". Totally, completely, 100% serious. He didn't even crack a smile, just sat there looking at me. Glad to know that my big mouth has not gone unnoticed.

One last story... I was walking to work the other day when I was stopped by a girl who asked if I could teach her English. My first time!! She spoke very little English, but managed to tell me that her family is very rich and she could pay me 2,000 won an hour to teach her. Sounded wonderful, except that 2,000 won is about $2 Canadian. Hmmmm. I'm thinking maybe she meant 20,000, but even then most teachers charge at least 50,000 an hour. I gave her my e-mail anyways in case she REALLY meant 200,000 an hour (hey you never know!). Don't worry mom I was very careful because you never know, she might have been trying to abduct me so that she could sell me to a rich North American who likes to torture English teachers in Asia (hey! sounds like Hostel 2!).

That's it for now.

Ashley xoxo

Another Update.. So Soon!

Well, not really an update but I figured I should get in the habit of posting so that I can give everyone something to read (and mostly Kristin, who is a faithful muffy and still checks every morning at work... or so she says haha)!

Today was a hot and sunny day, and it actually felt like summer! I hope most of the rain is over, even though I'm sure once it's hot I'll be wishing for some rain to cool everything down. I'm definitely hoping for sun tomorrow though, because I'm off to Everland! (Seoul's Wonderland). I've seen some of the rides on tv and they look pretty much. And all the horror stories the kids have told me about people dying haven't scared me too much, even though I have the feeling that they're probably true. I was reading on yahoo.ca about a family of 5 who died last week at an amusement park in Busan (on the east coast) when their bucket on a ferris wheel fell off. Exactly why I don't like ferris wheels. Any other ride I'm good to go!

In other news.. I found a part time job! Part time work is a little hard to come by here, because it's usually illegal (meaning deportation and a fine). But, apparently my school has an essay club that my old director was just put in charge of. They choose one teacher to mark the essays, and luckily he chose me. I talked to the teacher who's been doing it today, and she said she gets anywhere between 2 to 10 a night, depending on the month. It's a lot of marking, but I'll be getting $5 an essay so it really adds up. I'm not sure yet how long they'll take me to mark because it's a little different from how I mark the essays from my own classes, but I'm thinking I could probably get 10 ton in 2 hours tops. So it's pretty good money. I'm a happy girl!

I only work 3 days next week and then I'm off from the 23rd to the 29th. Pretty much everyone is heading out on a trip, but I decided to stick around and save my trips for later. I've 100% decided to go to Hong Kong for Christmas with Wennie, which is worth waiting for. It's been number one on my list of places to visit forever, so I'm already way too excited.

Ok that's it for now!

Ashley xoxo

P.S. Oh and here are a few pictures:

1) My new apartment, I moved in June.




2) William, Alex Wennie and I out for Korean BBQ



3) Birthday cake at work, making our own fun on a Friday night (doesn't it look like a Toyota commercial??) and a picture with some Koreans who were interviewing us for school

I've got Seoul

I’m sorry everyone… I’m sorry. Two months since my last update. It’s unacceptable I know. Where to begin…

I started another UBC course in May, and finally finished at the end of July. Even though it was only one course the workload was about the same as 2 undergrad classes. All based on discussion, so I’ve pretty much spent the last two months at work or sitting in front of my laptop. So I’ve really had nothing to update!

I feel like it’s been raining for months. Actually, it has! July is normally monsoon season, but it’s still going. Strange weather… ridiculously humid, but rainy. I start sweating as soon as I go outside, even if it’s raining. I really don’t want to imagine what it’s going to be like once the rain stops. And I noticed that I always have a layer of oil on my face, how great is that? I think it’s a mixture of the pollution and humidity. Oh and my hair falls out way more than usual, and other teachers have noticed it too. Not that I’m complaining, because we all know I have too much hair, but it’s kind of weird to have handfuls of hair coming out in the shower!

The smog is crazy too… you can pretty much see it down the street. I’ve heard that once it gets really hot you can see it at the top of tall buildings. It makes me realize how important it is to make sure that Canada never gets this bad.

Work… is work! We thought our campus was in danger of closing for a while, but it looks like it’s going to stay open at least until the end of my contract. This is good and bad news... I wouldn’t mind moving right into Seoul, but I know I’m saving more money here because I don’t go out as much. And Bundang is much cleaner and nicer than most of Seoul. Plus, Jin was just promoted to manager of our campus which is great! So many people here complain about their managers, so I’m lucky that I can say mine is a good friend.

Summer vacation is the month of August here, so I’m working 9 – 5 instead of 2 – 10pm. I thought I would like it better, but these past few weeks have reminded me how much I hate mornings. Don’t worry Dad… I don’t yell and snap at my 9am class. I’m actually quite pleasant and happy. Here’s a quote from one girl’s essay:

My second favorite star is Ashley Teacher. I like Ashley Teacher because she always teaches S1 class and B3 class. I think it is very tired. I like Ashley Teacher because she always laugh at all students. I think always laugh is mouth is some hurt.

See? I paste that smile on my face. I should be an actor. This class is a senior class, so I have a lot of fun with them just talking and laughing. They call me ‘the comic’, so I figure that’s a good thing.

My second class is the first level we offer at our school, and the kids can barely speak English. It’s a long 3 hours with them some days, but one of the students is the funniest kid I’ve ever met in my life. His name is Nam Guk and he looks like a pug. He always has a scowl on his face, and he sticks his tongue out when he’s concentrating really hard. Every so often I get him laughing, so now my goal in class is not to teach English but to make him laugh or smile. It keeps me going! I have never done so much colouring and laminating and cutting in my life. I have a newfound respect for kindergarten teachers.

The latest news.. I booked my flight home for Kell’s wedding! All the flights I was looking at were between $2000 and $2500, and I finally found a special with Air Canada for $1200 taxes in. I was so lucky… the special is only for two flights leaving Thursdays and Sundays, which is what I needed. And they’re direct! So I arrive Thursday evening and leave Sunday afternoon, it’s definitely going to be a whirlwind of a trip. But I can’t wait. I actually ended up getting another day off, but I had to take the Sunday flight back to get the special so I figure I’ll use the extra day to catch up on sleep once I’m back here.

So, all in all things are good! I definitely have the Ashley itchy feet... I’m ready to move on to somewhere new and exciting. But I’ve managed to pay off a good chunk of debt so far, and the thought of paying even more gets me through the bad days.

I promise another update sooner this time!!

Miss you all!

Ashley

xoxoxo

Pictures

Here are some new pictures... click on the thumbnail to see a bigger version. Enjoy!

1) Maryan, Ashley (two Ottawans) and William at Bricxx Bar 2) This is what I teach my kids... they noticed I didn't draw hands on the pictures and turned into into a bloody massacre 3) Hongdae on a Saturday, not busy at all!





Dongdaemun in Seoul for the Lotus Lantern Parade

1) Dongdaemun Gate, first build it 1398, was the main east gate of the city wall that surrounded Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty period 2) - 4) Pictures of the parade 5) Lanterns at Jogyesa Temple 6) Jogyesa temple




Korean National Museum

1) William and I outside of the museum 2) a 5th Century gold crown excavated from a tomb... a loooooong time ago! 3),4) Traditional Korean dancers

Another Update... So Soon!

I've been a busy girl!

Last Saturday I went into Itaewon and then Hongdae with Wennie and some other teachers that we've met who live in and around Seoul. It was a busy weekend, because the Thursday coming up was Buddha's birthday and a holiday and there were activities going on around the city. We ended up just walking around checking out the little vendors that set up everywhere on the street. I was a good girl and didn't buy anything, but it was tempting!! We went for some delicious Korean bbq and had fun doing pretty much nothing. Everyone else was drinking soju and smoothies, but after my mishap at the DJ fest I'm sticking with my no more soju rule.

After dinner we went to a place called Bricxx in Hongdae. It's a cool little lounge with a tree in the middle, a pond at one end, and low couches and tables. And hookah! Fun, but William (a teacher from Youngdo at another campus) and I decided to go home early. It was around 11pm by the time we left, and the last subway runs till midnight. We knew we wouldn't get the whole way home, but were hoping we'd get close enough for a cheap cab ride the rest of the way.

Two stops after Hongdae the train stopped, and everyone got off... there was a message playing but my Korean is still limited to hello, goodbye, thank you and numbers so we had no idea what it was all about. Finally someone saw us just standing there and said something like "train finish"... it was pretty funny. So we waited for another train and it happened again... we just sat there until someone said "train finish." Glad to see some Koreans are looking out for the foreigners!

So, we were not even a quarter of the way home, didn't really know where we were and had no idea which direction was the right way. Finally we got a cab, and it was the most interesting ride of my life. I finally have experienced what it's like to talk to someone who just wants to practice their English. I think the cab driver thought he was speaking English, and kept on talking... somehow with the little Korean we know, some hand gestures and lots of 'ne' (yes) we got him to take us to a bus station that we knew. So next the bus, then a stop between our areas in Bundang and another cabride.. and I was home. And it only took 3 hours (normally the subway is about an hour and a half)! Definitely an adventure.

Sunday night I met up with William again and we went back into Seoul for the Lotus Lantern Festival Parade. On the way there we decided that Seoul is like malls on Christmas at home, but every day of the year. There are so many people wherever you go, no matter what day it is. You know how when there's a parade or festival all you have to do is follow the crowd to find out where it is?? Not here.

The parade was beautiful. The festival was for Buddha's birthday, and the parade is two hours of lanterns and huge floats that are all lit up... complete with fire breathing dragons. It was one of those 'Whoa, I'm living in Asia...." moments. We went to a temple nearby after that had literally hundreds of lanterns strung in the air, like a ceiling. I'm not even going to try to describe it... you had to be there. The colours were unreal.

Thursday was a holiday so we went back into Seoul again (don't worry Susa the subway is cheap). There was supposed to be a ceremonial lighting of the lanterns at the temple we were at on Sunday, but it was absolutely pouring rain. To the point where my umbrella was so wet the water was dripping through. So we went to the National Museum of Korea. instead, and the thing is HUGE... two hours and I don't even think we saw a quarter of it. Korea has so much history, and it was great to learn some background information on my new home! There were also some ceremonial dance performances which were pretty cool.

This weekend I had a pretty quiet weekend. Friday night we had girls night at Wennie's, and Saturday I went down to the river in Migeum and read for a while in the sun. On a more serious note, today I went with William (my explore Korea buddy!) to visit a safe house for Korean Comfort Women. By far my most memorable experience so far.

A little background information.... Comfort Women is the name for Korean women who were forced into sexual slavery by the Japanese during WWII. The women aged from 16 - 30, and were abducted, lied to or taken by Japanese soldiers during the war. The Japanese army had had problems in the past with losing large amounts of soldiers due to STDs, so the government's solution was to create 'Comfort houses' or brothels. The majority of the 200,000 women were Korean. The brothels were all over Asia, but Korean women were placed outside of their country so that they wouldn't know the language and wouldn't be able to escape. In Korea now the women are called 'halmoni', which means grandmother.

Of the 200,000 women only approximately 125 Korean women have come forward, and around 50 of other Nationalities. The house that we went to is a safe house for 9 of the Korean women who are still living. There's a small museum at the house, and there are a handful of volunteers who give an English tour once a month. It is unreal to hear about what these women went through. They even have the 'tickets' that soldiers were given. On a weekday, or a slow day, the woman would 'service' around 30 men. If a woman was pregnant and didn't abort the baby would disappear, and if a woman became sick she would disappear. Our tour guides were bilingual and had spent a lot of time talking to the halmonies; they have horrible stories about being abused and even stabbed.

The saddest part of this story is that the Japanese government has not taken responsibility for its actions. An 'Asian Women's Fund' has been created to provide the halmonies with enough money to live on their own, but the government has given money to help the women in the same way that we would give money to help them. The women (all in their 70s or 80s) go to Seoul every Wednesday to protest at the Japanese Embassy. They have a list of things that they want from the Japanese government, including a monument and an official pardon. But so far nothing has happened.

After walking through the museum one of the halmoni's gave a testimony that the volunteers translated into English. She shared some of her experiences, and her frustrations with the government. She taken to China when she was 16 one day after school, was a comfort woman for 3 years, and stayed in China until a few years ago. She did marry (which many halmonies don't), but said that her husband had no idea that she had been a comfort woman. That really hit home for some reason. Her life is in China, but she came back to Korea to fight the Japanese government with the other survivors.

Knowing what these women went through is one thing, but actually hearing a halmoni talk about her experiences is something that I don't think I'll ever forget. She mentioned over and over how she feels she cannot die until the Japanese government admits they have done wrong. You didn't have to speak Korean to hear the hurt and anger in her voice. And to look into her eyes and think about what she has seen was a feeling that I can't put into words. I think the biggest fear of the halmonies is that once they are gone everyone will forget what happened to them.

Lots to think about tonight....

Love

Ashley